September 2023
Dear Friends,
We are on the brink of our fifth harvest and every day proves that we need to accept forces beyond our control. Last night we were awakened by the aroma of petrichor, the earthy perfume released when rain hits dry soil. The enervating heat of the last two weeks has finally broken. We welcome the drop in night temperatures, ideal for the final ripening of our precious grapes.
The latest from… London
“Ultra-rare wines” of “staggering potential” are the words influential UK critic Matthew Jukes used in our recent review, placing Ultima Pietra on the “precipice of greatness”. We are flushed with excitement, do take a peek here if you have a minute! Recognition by such a renowned Bordeaux and Burgundy expert means so much to our team. Mark your calendars for our next wine offer opening on 18th September!
Cross-training the Italian way
This weekend we attended the Bravìo delle Botti in nearby Montepulciano, a pre-harvest tradition. This delightful hilltop town is divided into eight neighbourhoods. Two athletes are chosen from each to roll a 175 pound barrel up a steep mile of twisty cobbled streets.
First mentioned in 1373, this race was originally on horseback, before a local priest suggested switching to barrels to tie in with the DOCG wine. The finish is on the steps of the Duomo and the pageantry and Renaissance costumes are beyond beautiful. Here in Tuscany even the smallest village has an annual festival, or sagra including nights of eating and carousing, dressing-up and some kind of competition, be it pecorino cheese-rolling, archery or even wheelbarrow races carrying live frogs. Many of these sagre were entirely invented in the 1960s as tourist attractions. In the space of a generation they have become embedded in local identity and often provide valuable funding for local projects.
Winning the war in the Vineyard: 2023
Sunday’s uphill battle felt like a perfect metaphor for this growing season. Winter was kind to us with perfect low temperatures, rain and snow but Spring was characterized by downpours. In just three months we received more than half of the average annual rainfall. Labor costs doubled in order to quell the fast-growing vines and grasses and to vanquish downy mold. Altitude and ventilation helped us immensely, along with the endless work of our team.
Our knowledge of Ultima Pietra as an ecosystem deepens every year but we are well aware that luck (and our grape whisperer, Peppino!) played a part in our successful vineyard management this challenging vintage. Montalcino was recently ravaged by hail the size of golf balls. In the worst cases, 100% of crop was lost in ten violent minutes. Fortunately we were spared.
Our grapes are still ripening on the vines. Corinna and I will be playing our annual duet on the sorting table within just a few days. There will be no rest until the last grape is safely in the cellar.
With trepidation, acceptance and gratitude,
Margot